PFAS - Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances *
Updated 16, September 2026 | by Lydia Brearley
What are PFAS?
PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) are a group of over 10,000 synthetic chemicals used since the 1940s for their water-, oil-, stain- and heat-repellent properties.
They are commonly called “forever chemicals” because they do not break down naturally in the environment and can accumulate in water, soil, wildlife and the human body.
In fashion, PFAS are mainly used in:
Durable water-repellent (DWR) coatings
Outdoor and performance garments
Workwear and PPE
Leather finishing
Stain-resistant treatments
Why are PFAS important for fashion?
PFAS are a priority issue for the fashion sector for 4 main reasons:
They create long-term environmental contamination - PFAS persist for decades or centuries and spread globally through water and supply chains.
They are linked to human health risks - Exposure has been associated with cancers, thyroid disease, infertility and developmental effects.
Textiles are a major source of PFAS pollution in Europe - The European Environment Agency identifies textiles as one of the biggest PFAS emission sources and a barrier to circular textile recycling.
Regulation is accelerating globally - Restrictions are rapidly expanding across the EU and nationally in multiple countries, making PFAS a near-term compliance issue for brands.
Whare are the key principles a brand should know about PFAS?
PFAS are being phased out (not just restricted)
The EU is progressing toward a broad restriction covering most PFAS uses, with limited exemptions only for “essential uses.”
Most fashion uses are considered non-essential
Evidence shows PFAS are not technically necessary for most textile applications, and alternatives already exist.
Regulation targets the entire chemical class
Unlike earlier restrictions on specific PFAS types (e.g. C8), new rules increasingly apply to all PFAS collectively.
Circularity and PFAS are incompatible
PFAS contamination limits:
→ fibre recycling
→ textile reuse
→ safe material recovery stream
Background and Context
In the European Union (EU / EEA) 5 countries (Denmark, Germany, Netherlands, Norway, Sweden) submitted a proposal for a broad PFAS restriction covering most uses across sectors.
A phased EU restriction is expected to:
→ limit PFAS across consumer products
→ allow temporary exemptions where alternatives are unavailable
→ phase out uses over 5–12 years depending on application
Separate PFAS restrictions under REACH already exist (e.g., firefighting foams from 2026 onward).
Which countries have already proposed to ban PFAS?
FRANCE introduced one of the strongest national PFAS laws:
From January 2026 France introduce a ban on PFAS in clothing textiles, footwear and cosmetics
From 2030 ban extended to all textiles placed on the market (with limited exemptions)
DENMARK has drafted a regulation proposal:
From July 2026 a ban on sale/import of PFAS-containing clothing, footwear and waterproofing agents for consumers
SWEDEN, GERMANY, NETHERLANDS, NORWAY have joined to lead the EU-wide universal PFAS restriction proposal under REACH.
In the UK progress exists but is slower; current strategy focuses more on monitoring and consultation than immediate bans compared with EU leaders.
Who will be impacted by a ban on PFAS in fashion?
Directly impacted
Brands
Designers
Product developers
Material suppliers
Chemical formulators
Manufacturers
Certification bodies
Indirectly impacted
Retailers
Recyclers
Waste managers
Consumers
Workers in textile finishing
Because PFAS regulation increasingly applies at product-level placement on the market, brands are responsible even if chemicals are applied upstream
What PFAS bans mean for fashion brands:
Brands should treat PFAS as a strategic transition issue, not just a compliance task.
Key implications include:
Material strategy must change
PFAS-based coatings (especially DWR) are being replaced by:
PFAS-free finishes
mechanical water-repellency solutions
fibre-level performance alternatives
Supplier engagement is essential
PFAS often enter products through:
finishing mills
chemical formulations
trims and components
Brands must update:
Restricted Substance Lists (RSL)
Manufacturing Restricted Substance Lists (MRSL)
Supplier declarations
Certification requirements are tightening
For example: Bluesign® eliminated intentionally added PFAS from approved products starting 2025 (with limited essential-use exceptions).
Regulatory risk is increasing quickly
National bans (France, Denmark) are already ahead of EU-wide restrictions.
Circularity targets require PFAS removal
PFAS contamination prevents fibre-to-fibre recycling in many cases
Recommended actions for brands:
Practical next steps:
Short term
map PFAS use across product categories
update RSL/MRSL policies
request supplier declarations
Medium term
transition to PFAS-free DWR alternatives
review performance claims vs necessity
align with certification schemes
Long term
redesign products for inherent performance
enable recyclability
prepare for class-wide PFAS restrictions
Further Reading and Official Sources
→ European Chemical Agency (ECHA) - Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS)
→ European Environment Agency - PFAS in textiles in Europe’s circular economy - September 17, 2024