PFAS -
per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances

What is PFAS?

  • PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) are a group of over 10,000 synthetic chemicals used since the 1940s for their water-, oil-, stain- and heat-repellent properties.

  • They are commonly called “forever chemicals” because they do not break down naturally in the environment and can accumulate in water, soil, wildlife and the human body.

  • In fashion, PFAS are mainly used in:

    • Durable water-repellent (DWR) coatings

    • Outdoor and performance garments

    • Workwear and PPE

    • Leather finishing

    • Stain-resistant treatments

Why are PFAS important for fashion?

  • PFAS are a priority issue for the fashion sector because:

  • They create long-term environmental contamination

  • PFAS persist for decades or centuries and spread globally through water and supply chains.

  • They are linked to human health risks

  • Exposure has been associated with cancers, thyroid disease, infertility and developmental effects.

  • Textiles are a major source of PFAS pollution in Europe

  • The European Environment Agency identifies textiles as one of the biggest PFAS emission sources and a barrier to circular textile recycling.

  • Regulation is accelerating globally

  • Restrictions are rapidly expanding across the EU and nationally in multiple countries, making PFAS a near-term compliance issue for brands.

Whare are the key principles a brand should know about PFAS?

  • PFAS are being phased out (not just restricted)

  • The EU is progressing toward a broad restriction covering most PFAS uses, with limited exemptions only for “essential uses.”

  • Most fashion uses are considered non-essential

  • Evidence shows PFAS are not technically necessary for most textile applications, and alternatives already exist.

  • Regulation targets the entire chemical class

  • Unlike earlier restrictions on specific PFAS types (e.g., C8), new rules increasingly apply to all PFAS collectively.

  • Circularity and PFAS are incompatible

    PFAS contamination limits:

    • fibre recycling

    • textile reuse

    • safe material recovery stream

Background and Context

  • European Union (EU / EEA)

  • Five countries (Denmark, Germany, Netherlands, Norway, Sweden) submitted a proposal for a broad PFAS restriction covering most uses across sectors.

  • A phased EU restriction is expected to:

    • limit PFAS across consumer products

    • allow temporary exemptions where alternatives are unavailable

    • phase out uses over 5–12 years depending on application

  • Separate PFAS restrictions under REACH already exist (e.g., firefighting foams from 2026 onward).

Which countries have already proposed to ban PFAS?

  • FRANCE introduced one of the strongest national PFAS laws:

  • From January 2026 ban on PFAS in clothing textiles, footwear and cosmetics

  • From 2030 ban extended to all textiles placed on the market (with limited exemptions)

  • DENMARK has drafted regulation proposal:

  • From July 2026 a ban on sale/import of PFAS-containing clothing, footwear and waterproofing agents for consumers

  • SWEDEN, GERMANY, NETHERLANDS, NORWAY have jointly lead the EU-wide universal PFAS restriction proposal under REACH.

  • In the UK progress exists but is slower; current strategy focuses more on monitoring and consultation than immediate bans compared with EU leaders.

Who will be impacted by a ban on PFAS in fashion?

  • Directly impacted

    • Brands

    • Designers

    • Product developers

    • Material suppliers

    • Chemical formulators

    • Manufacturers

    • Certification bodies

    Indirectly impacted

    • Retailers

    • Recyclers

    • Waste managers

    • Consumers

    • Workers in textile finishing

    Because PFAS regulation increasingly applies at product-level placement on the market, brands are responsible even if chemicals are applied upstream

What PFAS means for fashion brands (to be updated)

Further Reading and Official Sources